For many, dining at inns along the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi pilgrimage route in the middle of the Kii Peninsula, feasting on local fish, herbs and vegetables, can be an epicurean paradise.
However, for vegetarian and vegan travelers, it can be challenging to find suitable dietary options in the rural Japanese countryside.
Why are vegetarian meals so difficult to find?
- Vegetarianism (and veganism) are still relatively new concepts to Japan, and particularly new to countryside inns.
- Family-run businesses have established themselves as – and take pride in – being traditional inns renowned for their menus and choice ingredients handed down for generations. Culturally, it had been inappropriate to ask them to change their menu.
- Katsuo Dashi (fish broth) is a traditional ingredient used for many types of seasoning and is very difficult to remove from Japanese cooking.
- Alternatives for fish or meat dinners are not readily available.
- Even for inns that are willing to provide an alternative, it can be costly and time-consuming, especially during peak season, and may not be consistently offered throughout the year.
However, rest assured, there are ways to find dietary options along the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi course.
Vegetarian Options
Luckily, rural Japanese cuisine already consists of mountain herbs and vegetables as a base, and there is a growing list of accommodations along the Kumano Kodo that are adapting to vegetarian meal requests.
To find accommodations offering vegetarian meal options on the KUMANO TRAVEL Community Reservation System “Search” window, follow these steps.
- Check the Accommodations box.
- Select the area (village, town).
- Select type of accommodation.
- Check the box if you are planning to walk the Kumano Kodo.
- Check “Yes” for Vegetarian.
- Select one of five Vegetarian meal types.
- Finally, click the “Search” button.
You can also check accommodation meal information in the Details section for any accommodation.
More Vegetarian meal information.
Koyasan and Shojin Ryori Cuisine
Staying in Koyasan is not only a meditative, relaxing temple stay in the Shingon Buddhist mountain enclave, but it is also the chance to try the very healthy, tofu-based vegetarian meals called Shojin Ryori.
“Shojin Ryori” translates to mean “devotion cuisine.”
These special meals are intimately connected to monastic life in Koyasan and part of the monks’ training routine. They are served on low tray tables often lacquered red or black. No strong tastes or smells such as garlic, onions, curry, etc. are used.
Meals at Koyasan feature “Koya-dofu,” a kind of frozen, dried tofu that derives its name from Koyasan and was introduced a couple of hundred years ago. Koya-dofu is said to be a nutritious meal with multiple health benefits.
Vegan Options
Vegan meal options are more challenging to find in the Kumano region and require more creative solutions.
Vegan-friendly Accommodations
Takahara
Having some vegan options that first night in Takahara after walking from Takijiri-oji can help guests start their trip right.
In Takahara, both Kiri-no-sato Takahara Lodge and Minpaku Akatsuki can provide vegan meals with adequate advance notice (although no guarantees for allergy-based requests without consultation).
Greater Nakahechi
When the smaller settlement of Takahara is booked, some guests consider Guest House Kiyohime and Guest House Kiyohime 3 in the relatively nearby Greater Nakahechi area of Manago. Both cater to vegan and even some allergy requests (must be requested in advance).
The owner offers to pick up guests from the Takahara viewpoint and take them back to the trailhead the next day (shuttle must also be booked in advance).
Nonaka (Tsugizakura)
Old Trail Guesthouse & Restaurant near Tsugizakura-oji shrine offers vegan meal options.
Hongu Area
In the Hongu area, YAKIOHOUSE, a rental house in greater Hongu, offers vegan options, and Gesshinan offers no meals.
Vegan-friendly Bento Box Lunch
Guests can have a vegan-friendly bento delivered by Loro Kitchen Tenjinzaki to the front of the TANABE Tourist Information Center next to Kii-Tanabe Station to take with them on the Kumano Kodo the first day!
No Meal Plans
A number of accommodations offer “no meal” plans. This allows the vegan guest to safely bring and prepare their own food.
Some guesthouses offer a microwave or shared kitchen with utensils to use. Rental houses usually have a kitchen.
There are some grocery stores and convenience stores in larger areas like Kii-Tanabe station area, Chikatsuyu, Shingu and Katsuura.
Near JR Kii-Tanabe Station, there are O-City supermarket, 7-11 and Family Mart convenience stores, and a couple of small greengrocers. There is an A-Coop supermarket in Chikatsuyu.
Vegetarian Meal Hybrid or Buffet Options
Vegetarian meals might provide a partial meal for vegan guests which they can supplement with their own food later.
Also, some larger accommodations may offer a buffet with a variety of choices.
Kawayu Midoriya and Hotel Urashima, for example, have buffets with lots of options.
※ Meal information is subject to change over time. Please double-check when making a reservation.
Vegan-friendly Accommodation Suggestions by Area
The following is an area-by-area list of suggestions for vegan guests to experience the Kumano Kodo.
Vegetarians might also find this useful.
| Area | Accommodation | Options |
|---|---|---|
| Tanabe | Tanabe Accommodation | Many “No Meal” options available. |
| Greater Nakahechi | Guest House Kiyohime | Vegan and allergy-based options possible with advance request. |
| Guest House Kiyohime 3 | Vegan and allergy-based options possible with advance request. | |
| Takahara | Minpaku Akatsuki | Vegan meal options possible with advance request. |
| Kiri-no-Sato Takahara Lodge | Vegan meal options possible with advance request. | |
| Tenku-no-Satoyama | Rental house with kitchen. | |
| Chikatsuyu | Guesthouse HOUSEN | Vegan meal options possible with advance request. |
| Happiness Chikatsuyu | Rental house with kitchen. | |
| Kodo-no-Yado Kakidaira | Some vegetarian options with advance request. | |
| Kumano Kodo Inn Chikatsuyu BASE | Vegan meal and allergy-sensitive options possible with advance request. | |
| Minshuku Chikatsuyu | Able to cater to vegetarian and some food allergies on request. | |
| Minshuku Momiji-no-Sato | Some vegetarian options with advance request. | |
| SEN.RETREAT CHIKATSUYU | Vegan meal options possible with advance request. | |
| Chikatsuyu Accommodation | Many “No Meal” options available. | |
| Kumano Kodo Yado G Chikatsuyu | Vegan meal options possible with advance request. | |
| Nonaka | Minshuku 3rd Place Kumano Kodo | “No Meal” option, kitchen use available. |
| Old Trail Guesthouse & Restaurant | Vegan meal options possible with advance request. | |
| Fushiogami | guest house shitanoie | Vegan meal options possible with advance request. |
| Hongu | Blue Sky Guesthouse | Vegan meal options possible with advance request. |
| Rei Kumano Kodo Rental House | Rental house with kitchen. | |
| Gesshinan | No meals option available. | |
| YAKIOHOUSE | Vegan meal options possible with advance request. | |
| Guesthouse Hatenashi | “No Meal” option, kitchen use available. | |
| Yunomine Onsen | J-Hoppers Kumano Yunomine Guesthouse | No meals, but rice available. Instant noodles for sale. |
| Ryokan Yunomineso | Vegan meal options possible with advance request. | |
| Kawayu Onsen | Kawayu Onsen Tabi-no-Yado Shiba | No meals, free use of kitchen. |
| Kawayu Midoriya | Buffet-style meals provide vegetarian options. | |
| Kawayu Accommodation | A variety of “No Meal” options available. | |
| Wataze Onsen | Guesthouse Modorizenoyado | “No Meals,” free use of kitchen. Pick-up ingredients in advance. |
| Guesthouse Okagesan | Rental house with kitchen. | |
| Koguchi | Koguchi Shizen-no-Ie | Flexible vegetarian options. “No Meals” option available. |
| Sansaro Cafe & Guesthouse | Vegetarian meal options possible with advance request. | |
| Katsuura | Hotel Urashima | Buffet-style meals provide vegetarian options. |
| Katsuura Accommodation | Many “No Meal” options available. |
Vegan/Vegetarian-friendly Restaurants
Tanabe
galette
French-style cuisine catering to vegetarian and vegan guests. Located about 10 minutes walk from Kii-Tanabe Station.
galette restaurant information
| Open | Lunch 11:30-14:00, Dinner 18:00-21:00 |
| Closed | Tuesdays |
| Location | 92-5 Shimoyashiki-cho, Tanabe-shi, Wakayama-ken 646-0032 |
| Phone | 0739-26-3596 (call in Japanese) |
Akihei
Japanese traditional-style restaurant able to cater to vegetarian and vegan requests. Located about 10 minutes walk from Kii-Tanabe Station.
Akihei restaurant information
| Open | 10:30 to 22:00 |
| Closed | Tuesdays |
| Location | 68 Kitashinmachi, Tanabe City, Wakayama Prefecture, 646-0041 |
| Phone | 0739-22-0234 (call in Japanese) |
Shingu
Hayatama Oshokudo Poruto
Italian-style restaurant located conveniently close to Kumano Hayatama Taisha whose owners have walked the Camino de Santiago in Spain (the restaurant is named after the city of Porto which is along the Portuguese Camino section).
The menu features local fish and vegetables and offers vegetarian and vegan options for guests.
Depending on how busy the restaurant is, meals may take a little longer. For larger groups with vegetarian requests, contact in advance (same day morning is okay).
| Open | Lunch 11:30 to 13:30 (l.o.) Dinner 18:00 to 20:30 (l.o.) |
| Closed | Monday, Tuesday. Wednesday evenings. |
| Location | 2-1-2 Kamihonmachi, Shingu City, Wakayama Prefecture, 647-0003 |
| Phone | 0735-23-2333 (Japanese only) |
Sohonke Mehariya
Mehari Sushi has been a local, traditional vegetarian cuisine for hundreds of years in the Kumano area. Mehari is a rice ball wrapped in pickled mustard leaf. This restaurant features this local food and other menu items in a bright, cozy atmosphere.
| Open | Lunch 11:00 to 21:00 (l.o.) |
| Closed | Wednesdays |
| Location | 5-6 Yakushi-cho, Shingu City, Wakayama Prefecture, 647-0006 |
| Phone | 0735-21-1238 (Japanese only) |
Nachi-Katsuura
kitchen nicori
Italian restaurant near Kii-Katsuura station in central Katsuura Village featuring vegetarian and vegan pizzas as well as gluten-free tacos (evenings only). English menu.
| Open | Dinner 18:00 to 22:00 (last order 21:30) |
| Closed | Sundays, Mondays |
| Location | 5-2-33 Tsukiji, Nachi-Katsuura Town, Higashimuro-gun, Wakayama Prefecture, 649-5335 |
| Phone | 0735-30-4435 (Japanese only) |
Areas with Convenience Stores or Shops
Stocking up on food at convenience and grocery stores provides options for vegetarian and vegan visitors.
Tanabe
While not as common in the middle of the peninsula, Tanabe has both convenience stores and grocery stores relatively close to Kii-Tanabe Station.
There is a 7-11 (open 6:30 to 22:00) inside the station and a Family Mart (open 24 hours) just 5 minutes away.
There are also 2 grocery stores within a kilometer of the station.
Visitors can ask for directions at the TANABE Tourist Information Center when they arrive.
Nakahechi
Some guests who are staying in the Greater Nakahechi area (near Kurisugawa not including Takahara Settlement) with a No Meals plan might consider the A-coop Grocery Store (open 9:00 to 19:00 every day) a couple hundred meters southwest of the Kurisugawa bus stop.
Chikatsuyu
The A-Coop Grocery Store located at the Aruki-no-Sato Chikatsuyu rest area has snacks, vegetables, maybe a few bento box lunch items, fruit, and more.
It is only a few hundred meters from Chikatsuyu-oji and the Kumano Kodo route. Open 8:30 to 18:00.
Hongu Area
Ono Grocery Store (Y-Shop Hongu) is located close to the Kumano Hongu Heritage Center (open 8:30 to 18:00).
Close to the Ukegawa trailhead, there is Shimoji Grocery Shop (Yamazaki Y-shop Shimoji Hongu Ten) open 7:30 to 18:00 but closed Wednesdays.
In Yunomine Onsen, there is a small convenience store, V-shop Yunomine Grocery, open generally from 9:00 to 17:00 with irregular holidays.
Shingu
Shingu has several convenience and grocery and produce stores within 30 minutes of Shingu Station.
Check at the Shingu Tourist Information Center just across the street from the station for more suggestions and an updated map of the Shingu area.
Nachi-Katsuura
There are 2 convenience stores and an Evergreen grocery store within 500 meters of the station.
Ask at the Nachi-Katsuura Tourist Information Center located next to the Kii-Katsuura Station for more suggestions.